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My home made works, short term.


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#21 mindswap

mindswap

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Posted 30 April 2011 - 06:59 AM

Thanx for the response Jim.

I'm up at 70 Mile House, British Columbia, in Canada. That's about 100 km (60 miles) NNW of Kamloops, BC. It's still pretty cold up here; epecially at our elevation of 3000 ft or so. It's still below 32f at night and hovers around 50f during the day.

I'd kind o' like to build a compact system to put in the back of my pick-up, but I have a few other projects (car builds) on the go, and they need finishing.

Thanks again everyone.

#22 fuel spiller

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 04:48 AM

I just saw the videos today, nice work.  Glad that copper held up.
One ?, why is the air mix valve (hole and tape) so far from the intake of the motor?

#23 mindswap

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 05:21 AM

The newest gasifier that you saw in my vedeos was built with steel tubes. The other one with copper tubes held up, but I'm not sure how long the copper would have lasted.

I get a better mix with my "ductape/orface" (lol) that far away from the intake. But the main reason I mix at that distance is to cool the gasses with ambient air before the last filter, so that more condensate can separate out of the gas and collect in the final filter can. If I mix too close to the intake, I get condensate running into the intake.

#24 fuel spiller

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 04:02 AM

Hi again,  do you have a condensate trap / gutter ring near the top of the hopper? It could take some away from the mix. I'll find a pic.
  Also, I've heard of some hacking of ICUs to change timing... may have been an old post on this forum, can't recall.

#25 mindswap

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 05:47 AM

A condensate trap/gutter near the top of the hopper? How would that install? If I could take some condensate out at that stage, I might be able to get better smoke mileage too.

Other than tapping in to the ecm, I was thinking that relocating the crankshaft sensor a few degrees might work. That's the only hack I can think of doing.

It would be nice to have a pic of something like the condensate trap in the hopper.

I'll do some searching.

#26 fuel spiller

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 03:37 PM

From Mike Larosa's latest.
As the water drops build up on the lid, they drip down into the gutter and on into the collector. The valve stays closed during operation to prevent an air leak. Some older units would reintroduce the moisture right before the char bed for the extra H and CO, but at a rate that would not lower hearth temp.

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#27 mindswap

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 11:24 PM

For the pics.

I think I would have to redesign my top door for the condensate to roll into the gutter. I will be building a compact, mobile, and smarter looking system this summer. I will incorporate the condensate catch.




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